What is a south swell?

Generally speaking, the biggest spots will face toward the incoming swell. For example, a south swell is moving from south to north and will be strongest at a break that faces either south or southwest. The local bathymetry, or underwater topography, of a spot can also influence surf quality.

How do you know which direction is swell?

Swell direction is the direction from which the swell is coming. It is measured in degrees (as on a compass), and often referred to in general directions, such as a north-northwest or southwest swell. Swell direction is an important factor to consider because it can determine the quality of waves.

What does swell mean in surfing?

The size of the wave, or swell height, is a measure in feet or meters. If the surf forecast says 1-3m (3-9ft), then it's usually a good time to go surfing. 3m waves are not appropriate for beginners, but experienced surfers take on waves of incredible height.

What is a north swell?

North Swell (NS) is a Mystic, CT based company for ocean enthusiasts and outdoor adventurers.

What does a northwest swell mean?

WEST AND NORTHWEST SWELLS:

During the months of October through April, swells generally approach California from the west and northwesterly directions. These swells are generated by storms that blow off Siberia and travel across the North Pacific Ocean on a west to east path.

Hundreds rescued in south shore surf swell

What is the difference between a wave and a swell?

Waves are generated by wind moving over water; they indicate the speed of the wind in that area. Swell are waves (usually with smooth tops) that have moved beyond the area where they were generated.

What is the biggest wave ever surfed?

Mr Steudtner set the record in October 2020 off the coast of Praia do Norte, Nazaré, in Portugal, when he surfed through a huge 26.21 metre wave (86 feet), Guinness World Records (GWR) said.

What swell direction is best for surfing?

The swell direction is usually expressed in cardinal points (N, E, S, W). As a general rule of thumb, a beach facing directly west will get bigger and better waves if the swell comes from the west. The swell direction is important — if the swell doesn't hit your region correctly, you will not receive good waves.

How many seconds between waves is good?

10 – 12 Seconds

They can often create good quality surf. These swells won't bend or 'refract' into hard to reach surf spots and are less likely to barrel when smaller than longer period swells.

What is a SSW swell?

So, if you see a SSW swell, this means the swell is coming from the south-southwest.

What is the difference between sea swell and surf?

As swells arrives at the beach, shallow water forces waves to slow down and rise up above the surface, morphing as it goes through a process known as "wave shoaling". Surf is swell that has arrived in shallow enough water to rise up above the surface, and break.

Is surfing better in high or low tide?

The best tide for surfing in most cases is low, to an incoming medium tide. Keep in mind low-tide on shallow surf breaks jack the waves up higher, leaving less room between the water's surface and ocean bottom. Always know the area you're surfing and avoid shallow reef and rock obstacles if possible.

How big can swells get in the ocean?

Biggest waves ever measured

In terms of so-called significant wave height, they established a new record, according to the scientists: 18.5 meters (61 feet). Significant wave height is the median height of a wave's upper third.

How fast do ocean swells travel?

The speed of travel of the deep water swell group will be 1.5 times the swell period; ie: a 20 second swell will be traveling at 30 Nautical mph. The actual individual waves will be traveling at three times the swell period, so a 20 second swell will have waves moving at up to 60 Nautical mph.

How long does a swell last?

By definition, swell period is the time required for one complete wave length to pass a fixed point, and it is given in seconds. Nearly all the swell you're likely to ever see surf from will range from 4 to 22 seconds, but for lots of spots that high end swell never happens.

What does swell mean slang?

In the 1930s, swell became a popular slang term meaning great or excellent. But it also can describe a wealthy, elegant person, like a group of swells at a fancy restaurant. Definitions of swell.

What is a comfortable wave period?

For boaters, long wave periods (e.g., 12 seconds) are better for sailing because it typically means most of the waves will be swells which means a smoother ride for small boats.

What does Seas 2 to 4 feet mean?

It means the boat will be rocking a lot but not unbearable, depending on how many seconds between waves. They usually say something like 4' foot sea with 10 seconds which means 10 seconds between sets of waves. If its 2 to 3 seconds that means a lot more waves, closer together.

What are spilling waves?

Spilling waves are gentle waves with crests that break softly towards the shore. These waves break when the ocean floor has a gradual slope. Plunging waves break when the ocean floor is steep or has sudden depth changes. They can be powerful barrels or enormous close-outs.

What does Lola mean in surfing?

LOLA, the Surfline swell model that spurred a forecasting revolution, is retiring after 20 years. The brainchild of Sean Collins and William O'Reilly, LOLA provided timely and accurate forecasts for millions of surfers around the world over the past two decades.

What size waves should a beginner surf?

GOOD WAVE HEIGHT FOR BEGINNER SURFERS? Generally speaking the smaller the better -- but not too small that you can't get moving. This usually means waves in the 1.5 - 2ft range (occasionally 3ft if you're up to it).

Does tide affect swell?

On incoming tides, the deeper water enables the raw swell energy to move a little closer to shore with less of a friction factor from the bottom. Again, this depends on the nearshore bathymetry and the continental shelf.

Can you surf a tsunami?

You can't surf a tsunami because it doesn't have a face. Many people have the misconception that a tsunami wave will resemble the 25-foot waves at Jaws, Waimea or Maverick's, but this is incorrect: those waves look nothing like a tsunami.

Who's the best surfer of all time?

Robert Kelly Slater (born February 11, 1972) is an American professional surfer, best known for being crowned World Surf League champion a record 11 times. Slater is widely regarded as the greatest professional surfer of all time.

How big is a 3 foot wave?

Thus, a "3-foot" wave is roughly six feet high (in actuality an H_m0 of ~1.8 m), i.e., head-high to a 6-foot (~180 cm) person; a "2-foot" wave is roughly four feet high (H_m0 of ~1.2 m), i.e., chest-high to such a person; and a "6- to 8-foot" wave would be 2 to approaching 3 times head-high to such a person (H_m0 of ~3.5 ...