What is a northwest swell?

WEST AND NORTHWEST SWELLS:

During the months of October through April, swells generally approach California from the west and northwesterly directions. These swells are generated by storms that blow off Siberia and travel across the North Pacific Ocean on a west to east path.

What does a west swell mean?

It receives waves from just about any direction which makes it a great surfing spot all year round. Waves coming from the West direction know as a West swell will hit Kahaluu Bay directly resulting in good waves. Kahaluu Bay also picks up good surf when the swell direction in Northwest or Southwest.

How do you know which direction is swell?

Swell direction is the direction from which the swell is coming. It is measured in degrees (as on a compass), and often referred to in general directions, such as a north-northwest or southwest swell. Swell direction is an important factor to consider because it can determine the quality of waves.

What does swell mean in surfing?

The size of the wave, or swell height, is a measure in feet or meters. If the surf forecast says 1-3m (3-9ft), then it's usually a good time to go surfing. 3m waves are not appropriate for beginners, but experienced surfers take on waves of incredible height.

What is the difference between a wave and a swell?

Waves are generated by wind moving over water; they indicate the speed of the wind in that area. Swell are waves (usually with smooth tops) that have moved beyond the area where they were generated.

Biggest Swell in 2022 - Nias - RAWFILES - 24/MAY - 4K

Can you surf on 1 ft waves?

As a general rule, if it's only 1ft, it's pretty difficult to surf on, unless you longboard or are a lightweight grom/ shredding machine!

What is the difference between sea swell and surf?

As swells arrives at the beach, shallow water forces waves to slow down and rise up above the surface, morphing as it goes through a process known as "wave shoaling". Surf is swell that has arrived in shallow enough water to rise up above the surface, and break.

How many seconds between waves is good?

10 – 12 Seconds

They can often create good quality surf. These swells won't bend or 'refract' into hard to reach surf spots and are less likely to barrel when smaller than longer period swells.

How big can swells get in the ocean?

Biggest waves ever measured

In terms of so-called significant wave height, they established a new record, according to the scientists: 18.5 meters (61 feet). Significant wave height is the median height of a wave's upper third.

What swell direction is best for surfing?

The swell direction is usually expressed in cardinal points (N, E, S, W). As a general rule of thumb, a beach facing directly west will get bigger and better waves if the swell comes from the west. The swell direction is important — if the swell doesn't hit your region correctly, you will not receive good waves.

What does Lola mean in surfing?

LOLA, the Surfline swell model that spurred a forecasting revolution, is retiring after 20 years. The brainchild of Sean Collins and William O'Reilly, LOLA provided timely and accurate forecasts for millions of surfers around the world over the past two decades.

What tide is best for surfing?

The best tide for surfing in most cases is low, to an incoming medium tide. Keep in mind low-tide on shallow surf breaks jack the waves up higher, leaving less room between the water's surface and ocean bottom. Always know the area you're surfing and avoid shallow reef and rock obstacles if possible.

What is the longest swell period ever recorded?

The biggest wave ever recorded measured 1,720 feet.

What is a comfortable wave period?

For boaters, long wave periods (e.g., 12 seconds) are better for sailing because it typically means most of the waves will be swells which means a smoother ride for small boats.

What does Seas 2 to 4 feet mean?

It means the boat will be rocking a lot but not unbearable, depending on how many seconds between waves. They usually say something like 4' foot sea with 10 seconds which means 10 seconds between sets of waves. If its 2 to 3 seconds that means a lot more waves, closer together.

What is the difference between swell and chop?

'Swell' is the term used to describe a series of mechanical waves found in the sea or lakes set up by distant weather systems. While chop is generated by local winds, the size of swell is coming from far away. Swimmers most often encounter swell in the sea.

What is a large swell?

Large swells with long periods travel extensive distances across open ocean, their energy extending from the oceans surface towards the sea floor, otherwise termed “ground swell”. When this ground swell reaches a shoreline it is forced upwards by the sea floor into a wave.

Do rogue waves exist?

A 'rogue wave' is large, unexpected, and dangerous.

The wave was moving away from the ship after crashing into it moments before this photo was captured. Rogue, freak, or killer waves have been part of marine folklore for centuries, but have only been accepted as real by scientists over the past few decades.

How tall is a 4 foot wave?

The Traditional scale corresponds to approximately one half the height of the wave face, i.e. a wave estimated to be 4 feet from crest to trough (or chest-shoulder high on the average surfer) would be called 2 feet.

How big is a 5 ft wave?

That's very close to about 20-inch units for each half meter," Goddard told SurferToday. "So, two half meters is one meter, or about 3.28 feet - about waist high. Then, three half meters is about 60 inches or about head high. It looks like a five-foot wave, from the surfboard up to the lip of the wave."

How big is a 3 foot wave?

Thus, a "3-foot" wave is roughly six feet high (in actuality an H_m0 of ~1.8 m), i.e., head-high to a 6-foot (~180 cm) person; a "2-foot" wave is roughly four feet high (H_m0 of ~1.2 m), i.e., chest-high to such a person; and a "6- to 8-foot" wave would be 2 to approaching 3 times head-high to such a person (H_m0 of ~3.5 ...

What causes a sea swell?

Swells appear in the ocean when the wind transfers its energy from the air into the water. Every swell starts as small ripples on the ocean surface, and as they travel, the energy builds up and the swell will start to grow in size before it finally breaks into actual waves.

What is the difference between swell 1 and swell 2?

When the primary swell is between 4 and 6 metres, second swell is included if it is greater than 1.5 metres and from a different direction. When the primary swell is between 6 and 8 metres, second swell is included if it is greater than 2 metres and from a different direction.

Is 2m swell rough?

slight – up to 1.0 metre. moderate – up to 2.0 metres. rough – up to 3.0 metres. very rough – up to 4.5 metres.